Day 21: You are always in a hurry!

After our last dinner together and gifts for our guides, cooks and drivers we all slept in a little bit and wandered up to the shelter to find Gichuru sitting peacefully guarding our breakfast from the monkeys. Gichuru had a way with communication that still blows me away. What Gichuru says or thinks happens and it happens with such grace and kindness words cannot describe. We could all clap, scream, stomp and blast horns and the monkeys would still come up to our table. All Gichuru has to do is sit there and they all keep their distance hardly even acknowledging that we have food. Everyone was relatively quiet at breakfast after which we packed up and climbed into the vans to head back to Nairobi.

We stopped on the way at the curio shop to pick up the items we had bartered for on the way to Maasai. Our guides were sitting down to tea while we went about our business. Sarah and I asked if we had time for coffee which was a silly question in Kenya because there is nothing but time. Sarah and I sat down at a table and enjoyed our coffee and paper as the Kenyans do. After we were finished we continued on our journey.

After reaching Nairobi and sitting in insane traffic for about a half hour we reached a pizza place. A PIZZA PLACE!!! After much discussion about how Kenya has to have the best pineapple pizza we found out we were right. We gobbled up more pizzas then a group of people on their way to one of the best restaurants in the world should have and then headed to a hotel next door to shower and pack for the airport.

Sarah and I took a little detour in order to use the atm. Gichuru gave us directions on how to get there (it was down the road) but some how the way kept getting lost in translation so he walked us most of the way and then let us go on our own. After making friends with everyone in the atm vestibule we started heading back towards the hotel. We made several attempts to cross the busy street until suddenly Gichuru showed up out of no where and all traffic stopped to let us pass. Again, Gichuru saves the day.

This was no ordinary hotel, this was fancy! There was even someone in the elevator to take you up and down which weirded me out a little so after my shower I took the stairs back down to head out into downtown Nairobi on a last minute coffee and tea spree. I reached the bottom of the stairs and immediately smiled as I saw Njoroge was there in the lobby! He seemed equally as happy to see I was there and said he would take me to purchase coffee and tea. We walked a couple blocks downtown to Nakkumatt. If it wasn't for the clear distinction that I looked different then everyone it would have been just like being downtown in Minneapolis except the crosswalks are called Zebraways.

We walked around Nakkumatt and looked at everything from kitchen appliances to flat screens before heading over to the coffee and tea aisle. Njoroge asked to carry my basket for me and was holding my coffee and tea when we bumped into my professor, Connie. I could have rolled over in laughter when she saw me and thought I had just picked up some random Kenyan (which we had just been warned about) to help me get around. I explained to her that I had spent time with Njoroge while she was on the mountain which brought her great relief. Njoroge and I continued to browse and I explained to him that Connie had a P.h.D. He thought it was rare that a female would need such high education since the man is supposed to be the financial support of the family. I explained to him that such was not the case in USA and that the roles were even reversing to men staying at home with the children. He was surprised and politely said he was not sure he was ready to do that.

We brought my purchase back to the hotel and realized we still had a little time so we decided to go to a Java House Coffee Shop. One the way there Njoroge explained to me how pick pockets work in Kenya which is just the same as at home although I have yet to experience either. He also told me that the cars stopping for us to cross the street and the taxi drivers asking me where I needed to go was only happening because I was a tourist and that otherwise would not be the case.

We arrived at Java House where I discovered we had to sit down and order and couldn't just walk up to the counter. I explained to Njoroge that we didn't have that much time but he insisted we sit and look at the menu. After placing our beverage order he asked me why Americans were always in a hurry. I told him in USA you didn't even have to get out of your car to get your coffee, you just pull up to the window. He could not believe we were so rushed all the time. We continued this discussion for a minute longer before Kate and Josey walked in looking all confused. I called them over to our table and they asked why they couldn't just go up to the counter and order. Njoroge and I laughed at the irony and told them to have a seat. Reluctantly they sat down and waited to order their beverages specifying it was "to-go", talked to us while they waited and immediately headed out once their drink arrived. It was a prime example of the Kenyan way vs. the American way. Personally, I like the Kenyan way. I ordered a macchiato for Sarah and we made our way back to the chaos of loading up to leave at the hotel.

Carnivore Time!! This is one of the top restaurants in the world and it was good!! Basically you got a little vegetable and a little potato, a lot of sauces and all the meat you could eat. The gave us a white flag and when we were full we put down our white flag and they would stop circling our table with swords full of meat. We had the normal, beef, pork, chicken, and we also had the game stuff.... zebra, ostrich, croc and more. It was good!!

Even though we were all sad to be leaving we made the best of it and filled the table with love and laughter. We took a lot of pictures and got certificates for completing a Kiboko Wilderness Adventure.

After debating whether or not to race out the back door Gichuru found Sarah and I and asked us if we were joining our classmates outside. Sadly we climbed in the vans and headed to the airport where we hugged our drivers goodbye. As per Kenyan style they told me to bring greetings to my husband. I took one last opportunity to speak Kiswahili to the staff at the airport before boarding the plane. As we reached our altitude I looked down at the lights of Kenya gleaming through the night sky and said "Kwaheri ya Kuonana" (see you soon). I turned to Sarah and we began making plans for our next safari.

Day 19-20: Safari Mzuri Sana!

Day 19 and 20 were spent at a camp just outside Maasai Park. Our tents were like those in M.A.S.H. and we were all very excited to each have a shower, sink and toilet attached to our tent. To mix things up I shared a tent with Sarah and Josey, two of my closest classmates. Time not spent eating or sleeping at the camp was spent on safari. Here are some of my favorite pictures:

Above: Sarah ready to move into our "twondo" or "tuites" as they became called. Below: Me with my good luck butterfly from Rosemary.

At the Kenya and Tanzania border.

At the end of our very last safari I finally saw a hyena in the distance which, I had been hoping to see the whole trip.

Day 18: Peacock Feathers and Goat Heads

I woke up early and headed outside to go to the bathrooms. On my way back I saw a gigantic bird in our campsite so I quickly grabbed my camera from the tent. Then when I turned around a second giant bird was there as well, I knew that one was a peacock and it was beautiful.

Isaac came from somewhere and I excitedly pointed out the two birds to him. The peacock dropped a feather so Isaac gladly held it up for a picture upon my request.
I found out the other bird was a marble stork. I sat down for coffee and continued to watch the birds. After showers and breakfast we broke camp ahead of schedule and we were on our way to Maasai lands.

Our Maasai escort, Jonathon met us for lunch in town where we were also able to do a little shopping and use a cyber cafe. Jonathon was nice but it was different to suddenly have a new person teaching and leading our group.

As we drove through the closest town to Jonathon's Maasai home we were told to not take any pictures until we were at his place. We passed by a mob of people with clubs escorting a guy in his underwear and his hands tied together. Jonathon explained that he must have attempted to steal something so he was going to get beat. Another strong reminder that we weren't at home anymore. It actually made me feel sick to my stomach. I didn't like knowing someone's safety was clearly in danger and there was nothing I could do about it. Also, driving through this town I did not get the smiling faces and waves I normally did and I was quickly uncomfortable. I did not feel welcome there and I didn't understand why, why I would be somewhere I wasn't welcome and why I wasn't welcome.

After the longest dirt road in the world we finally arrived at Jonathon's home. Jonathon had two wives and explained that they lived in two separate houses. His first wife was his parents choice and his second wife was his personal choice. He had three children but he only seemed excited about his boy, which was the youngest.

He had us introduce ourselves to the three "newly circumsized boys" as he referred to them and they hung around on and off during our visit there. He also had us all pile into his house which was made of sticks, mud and manure. Packed in there like sardines I could barely stand up straight and we were bulging out the door.


The house was a hallway, two beds of some sort and a fire pit in the middle with a four inch hole in the wall for ventilation. There was another set of rooms where the youngest goat and calf would sleep as well. We also got a tour of the fenced area where the cows would sleep which Jonathon was excited about but the rest of us were more entertained by the giant spider on the fence.

We made our way down to camp where we met the two goats we would be eating that night. We also watched the "newly circumsized boys" start a fire with two sticks, manure and a machete. Afterwards a few of us made an attempt at it which was only good for laughs.

Most of the classmates went off to watch the goats being killed. I elected not to.

We hung out and watched the goats being roasted on spears over the fire. The two goat heads were just laying on the ground nearby for later that night. We ate dinner of which I had mostly chapati and fruit with only a little goat.

After dinner we gathered around the fire for traditional Maasai songs and dances. All were performed by men which was a little disappointing but the songs were cool to hear none-the-less. It was usually one person singing while the others made deep harmonic raspy breathing noises to the beat.

After that was completed we said goodnight to the Maasai and Isaac, who was the only one who accepted the offer to sleep in Jonathon's house. Two Maasai men stayed to guard our camp for the night.

Once most of the students went to sleep the Maasai guards started cutting apart the goats head for soup. Pat, Brandon and Kate watched while Sarah and I looked away most of the time. Camido, our cook, was also there and just held on to the goats eyes for a while. He translated for the Maasai asking if you could put a goats eye in a human and if it would work. We figured not so much. Laughter and being grossed out continued on throughout the night. The Maasai taught me a few words in the Maasai language before I retired for the night.