Day 18: Peacock Feathers and Goat Heads

I woke up early and headed outside to go to the bathrooms. On my way back I saw a gigantic bird in our campsite so I quickly grabbed my camera from the tent. Then when I turned around a second giant bird was there as well, I knew that one was a peacock and it was beautiful.

Isaac came from somewhere and I excitedly pointed out the two birds to him. The peacock dropped a feather so Isaac gladly held it up for a picture upon my request.
I found out the other bird was a marble stork. I sat down for coffee and continued to watch the birds. After showers and breakfast we broke camp ahead of schedule and we were on our way to Maasai lands.

Our Maasai escort, Jonathon met us for lunch in town where we were also able to do a little shopping and use a cyber cafe. Jonathon was nice but it was different to suddenly have a new person teaching and leading our group.

As we drove through the closest town to Jonathon's Maasai home we were told to not take any pictures until we were at his place. We passed by a mob of people with clubs escorting a guy in his underwear and his hands tied together. Jonathon explained that he must have attempted to steal something so he was going to get beat. Another strong reminder that we weren't at home anymore. It actually made me feel sick to my stomach. I didn't like knowing someone's safety was clearly in danger and there was nothing I could do about it. Also, driving through this town I did not get the smiling faces and waves I normally did and I was quickly uncomfortable. I did not feel welcome there and I didn't understand why, why I would be somewhere I wasn't welcome and why I wasn't welcome.

After the longest dirt road in the world we finally arrived at Jonathon's home. Jonathon had two wives and explained that they lived in two separate houses. His first wife was his parents choice and his second wife was his personal choice. He had three children but he only seemed excited about his boy, which was the youngest.

He had us introduce ourselves to the three "newly circumsized boys" as he referred to them and they hung around on and off during our visit there. He also had us all pile into his house which was made of sticks, mud and manure. Packed in there like sardines I could barely stand up straight and we were bulging out the door.


The house was a hallway, two beds of some sort and a fire pit in the middle with a four inch hole in the wall for ventilation. There was another set of rooms where the youngest goat and calf would sleep as well. We also got a tour of the fenced area where the cows would sleep which Jonathon was excited about but the rest of us were more entertained by the giant spider on the fence.

We made our way down to camp where we met the two goats we would be eating that night. We also watched the "newly circumsized boys" start a fire with two sticks, manure and a machete. Afterwards a few of us made an attempt at it which was only good for laughs.

Most of the classmates went off to watch the goats being killed. I elected not to.

We hung out and watched the goats being roasted on spears over the fire. The two goat heads were just laying on the ground nearby for later that night. We ate dinner of which I had mostly chapati and fruit with only a little goat.

After dinner we gathered around the fire for traditional Maasai songs and dances. All were performed by men which was a little disappointing but the songs were cool to hear none-the-less. It was usually one person singing while the others made deep harmonic raspy breathing noises to the beat.

After that was completed we said goodnight to the Maasai and Isaac, who was the only one who accepted the offer to sleep in Jonathon's house. Two Maasai men stayed to guard our camp for the night.

Once most of the students went to sleep the Maasai guards started cutting apart the goats head for soup. Pat, Brandon and Kate watched while Sarah and I looked away most of the time. Camido, our cook, was also there and just held on to the goats eyes for a while. He translated for the Maasai asking if you could put a goats eye in a human and if it would work. We figured not so much. Laughter and being grossed out continued on throughout the night. The Maasai taught me a few words in the Maasai language before I retired for the night.